Look FLAWLESS In Suits The Ultimate Guide To Buying Your First Suit [0:00:00] Today’s video, gents the ultimate guide for buying your first suit I’m going to arm you with the knowledge to buy the right suit at the right price at the right time that will last you for a long time Are you ready? Let’s get into it Now, the steps to purchase your first suit are simple, know the style pyramid First up, gentlemen nail the fit Never purchase a suit that doesn’t fit you Next up, pay attention to the function You want to look overall does this suit my needs If you need a business suit, you want to go with something that’s classic something that’s conservative Then, look at the fabric So, you want to look at the quality of the fabric you want to look the build the details that went into the stitching These small things may seem small initially, but if you don’t nail the style pyramid you’re going to end up purchasing a suit which is not going to serve you Now, I know what a lot of you guys are thinking, Antonio, it’s a lot more complicated than fit, function, and fabric What about dress shoes? What about dress shirts? What about neckties? What about pocket squares? What about socks? What about watches? Hold your horses, guys I am going to get into that later on in the video except actually watches Let me talk about watches right now If you’re looking for a good watch at a great price, guys, check out Vincero They’re the paid sponsor of today’s video They’re a great company that you guys have written back to me saying, Antonio, I love the way this watch looks, I get compliments So, one of my favorite collections, guys, the Chrono for two years has been my favorite collection I love the attention to detail and the complications the back face, the bands But, have you seen this new Bellwether Collection guys? Look at this one right here, black on black just a beautiful modern sleek design Then, we look at this one right here, blue steel I am loving this one It’s got a nice heavy band to it, just an overall great look, one of my favorite watches in their collections The key to rumor about Vincero, hey make bold watches that will set you apart will get you compliments at an affordable price I’m linking to them down in the description I’ve got a great discount code for you down there Go check them out great company, proud to support them First up, let’s talk suit fit Right off the bat it has to fit you in the shoulders If it doesn’t fit you in the shoulders, do not buy the suit So, what you’re looking for is at the shoulder point that’s where the point of the suit should be It shouldn’t go beyond an inch, it shouldn’t come in an inch You want to make sure that you nail it right in the shoulders Next up, we’re looking in the torso specifically what happens when you button up If it’s too tight, you’re going to have the dreaded X If it’s too loose, you’re going to be able to fit probably a full fist if not more in there Gents, understand that a good tailor can bring in a suit about two inches He can also let it out if the material is there about an inch-and-a-half, but beyond that you’re going to need to either size up or size down Why? Because it starts to throw off the proportions of the placement of the pockets and other details like that So, so you want to make sure it fits you right in the shoulders and the torso before you buy it Next up, we want to look at jacket length So, what you’re going to do is you’re going to stand straight, you’re going to put your arms down next to your side and you want the jacket length to go to about the knuckle of your thumb Now, another place to look at is to make sure that it covers the bottom curvature of your buttocks If it’s about an inch short or long, that’s perfectly fine You could actually have it a bit shorter if you are a short individual You can have it a bit longer if you are a tall individual But, anything beyond that you want to be careful of it Next up, let’s talk suit sleeve measurement So, to get an accurate measurement here, you want to wear a well-fitted dress shirt Put your hands down and we want to see about a quarter of an inch to three quarters of an inch of the shirt Another area to look at if you don’t have a well-fitted shirt with you is that the sleeve of the jacket should go about to the wrist bone Now, understand that of all the measurements of all the details on the jacket I’ve talked about, this is the one that’s most forgiving On most jackets that are bought off the rack, you can adjust this about an inch to an inch-and-a-half either way either lengthening or shortening The exception to this rule is if you buy a jacket with working surgeon cuffs So, this is a sign of quality, it shows that it was either bespoke, that it was custom, or it was bought at a finer menswear store The problem with this is that it can only be adjusted by about a quarter of an inch either way So, if you buy a jacket that has the surgeon cuffs that are working, you want to make sure that the sleeve length is just about perfect Now, another area to pay attention to is the jacket collar and this is when the jacket’s collar sits far off of your neck Understand that this is actually a pretty easy adjustment by a skilled tailor Another thing to look for is this sleeve pitch And so, this is at an angle where actually the jacket arm is made to go one direction or the other Now, men that run into issues with sleeve pitch usually stand very erect, so a lot of guys that were former military have an issue and they need to get basically the entire sleeve taken off and put back on or go find another jacket or if you’re a gentleman that you slump over, in this case the pitch will be off as well

[0:05:00] Now, occasionally you’re going to put on a jacket and you’re going to see some shoulder rumpling And this could be on just one side it could be on both sides, but you’re going to see a number of bumps in here This could be because the jacket’s been damaged or it could be because it’s having an issue of fitting your particular shoulder type So, if you see this be very careful of it, talk with the tailor see if they can actually get it adjusted to fit you If not, do not buy this jacket Now, when I talk about a suit, understand that a suit is a jacket and a pair of trousers made from the exact same fabric But now, let’s talk about the fit details of the trousers First up, let’s look at the fit in the waist So, understand that most trousers can be brought in about an inch-and-a-half and they can also be let out about an inch-and-a-half Again, going beyond this, we’re going to distort and we’re going to change the positioning of the pockets and that’s going to throw off a lot of the proportions But, you want to get rid of a lot of that excess material in and around the buttocks So, when you’ve got a great fit back there, hey, it looks great when you take your jacket off If you have way too much material, basically you got this, yeah, it looks like you could be wearing a diaper And if it’s too tight, guys, when you get out there on the dance floor you are going to rip those trousers Next up, let’s talk about trouser break So, whether you go with no break, a quarter break, half a break, a full break, guys, it’s a matter of personal preference I’m not going to say which one is right for you, but I am saying you need to make a choice You don’t want to be that guy that didn’t even think about this and is wearing trousers which are two inches too long or an inch too short So, get your trousers have a very easy fix that any tailor or even you can take care of All right, gents, so we nailed fit Congratulations Now, let’s talk about suit color So first off, guys, think about what is the function Remember the style pyramid? What is the function of the suit? You’re going to need it for interviews, you’re going to need it for your first job, you’re going to need it for important events So, you want to get a suit that is going to serve that particular need Guys, it really comes down to looking for a solid colored suit in navy or charcoal gray Those are really your best options Why? Because they’re going to go with the widest variety of shirts and shoes and other things They’re going to be incredibly flexible, they are part of an interchangeable wardrobe, and they’re not — they’re just simply going to work You want to go charcoal gray if you are a young man who looks young You want to go navy if you’re a little bit older and you will look old because navy is going to make you look younger, charcoal gray is going to make you look more mature Now, some of the variations out there let’s talk about the black suit This is one that is very commonly seen out there I don’t recommend black simply because it’s too stark of a color This is more for black tie, white tie that’s when you want to wear black Now, understand that some of you guys are going to find just a suit for a great deal Maybe you’ve got one that was given to you If it fits you well if it serves its purpose and fits a lot of the other details I’m talking about here and you really think it looks great, go for it I’m not going to argue and I’m not going to say that that’s wrong Now, let’s talk about a lighter gray So, you’ll see lighter gray jackets out there, understand that this is fine, but it’s not going to be really formal I would not recommend this for a first suit because it’s more informal this is almost more casual when it comes to more of a blue color So, this is more blue than it is navy Again, this is a great look very similar to the gray, but you will stand out when you’re next to everyone else in those navy blues and those charcoals Now, when it comes to small patterns, I actually love this I’m not going to though recommend it for your first suit Why? Because it just has this pattern in it, it’s something that people will remember For that reason, this would not be recommended for the first suit But, let’s say, hey, I just need something for a job interview and I need it now, I find this it’s a great deal, then go for it It will work in a pinch So this, again, is a pattern that’s even more pronounced than the last pattern I was showing you guys Even though it looks like a medium gray from a distance, I get up here and I see the white I see the basically some of the patterns in here with the black This one right here is a great maybe third, fourth, fifth suit, but not a first suit that I would recommend Even in a pinch I would be hesitant to actually wear this Tan, this is not a first suit This is not even a third or fourth suit This is a very casual suit that if you wear suits on a daily basis and you wear them in the summertime this would be an option But, but for most people they do not want to have this in their first five suits and definitely not your first one Pinstripe suits, I love them They look good, they work well for business The pinstripes mean business, but when it comes down to it it’s very memorable and this is not good for a first suit, maybe a fifth suit maybe a seventh suit If you wear suits on a daily basis, you’re in the big city this will look great Again, not a first suit So, this suit as you can guess is not a first suit The fabric it’s just too memorable It’s beautiful, I love this suit, but it’s not going to be a first suit Now, there’s some other details about the suit which make it not a good first suit One of them is this stylistic choice of the ticket pocket

[0:10:00] So, ticket pocket, we usually see over on the right hand side When you see this, this is a casual detail something that’s extra on a jacket and not something though you want on your first suit Now, this jacket right here, notice no ticket pocket So, this jacket right here is classic is a well- designed jacket and this could easily be a first suit But notice that this is a three-button jacket So three-button jackets, two-button jackets either or, you know, I’m not going to say that you need to go with one or the other Two-button jackets I think work best for most men, but if you are in shape if you’re a young man, I think a three-button jacket can look great The cool thing about a three-button jacket is that you can button both top buttons You don’t always have to button this top one this one is optional right here The middle one is always, the bottom one is never Now, this jacket right here this is a two-button jacket Notice how the V goes down lower On a three-button, it’s going to be higher So, a three-button does give a little bit more of a formal look, a two-button is going to be a bit more casual Now, one thing to pay attention to right here, notice that this has a notch lapel Notch lapels, classic, they’ve been around for a long time and this is one of the most common lapels you’re going to see out there and I think is great for a first suit Now, there are other types of lapels So, here’s that other lapel I was talking about This is a peak lapel, the most formal of all the lapels out there You probably do not want peak lapels on your first jacket Why? It’s a little bit too fashion-forward You will see this on a lot of designer jackets, jackets that are coming out of companies which are trying to be a little bit more bleeding edge Now, one particular detail about this, we were talking about the two-button versus the three- button This is a three-button jacket Notice it right here, it actually folds over This is called a two-and-a-half Now, let’s look at the back of the jacket So, what you’re going to see is there are double vents, there are no vent jackets, and there are single vent jackets I prefer double-vent jackets They’re going to be the most expensive to manufacture, but they often in my opinion give the most flattering type of look especially when a man is walking The single vent is going to look really bad when you put your hand in your pocket, it’s going to expose your backside, but it’s commonly seen out there because it’s cheap to manufacture The no vent, we see it oftentimes on slim-fit jackets coming out of Italy Also, I haven’t talked about the number of buttons So, most jackets out there are going to have four or three buttons Five buttons you will occasionally see it, two buttons sometimes on a sports jacket Understand that the number of buttons not really a big deal Where buttons become an important deal though is if you see brass buttons you see gold buttons you see something that maybe has a very high contrast like mother-of-pearl In that case, you don’t want to go for that That right there is going to stand out, it’s not going to be great for your first suit Okay So, you have nailed fit, function, and fabric If you follow that information you’re going to get a suit that works great But, I understand it’s a lot more than just the suit, what about the shirts? Okay, guys, so two colors here – white or blue That’s really all you need for your first ten shirts I know that sounds incredibly boring, right? Okay, guys, here is why it’s not boring because there are so many stylistic details you can pay attention to on – you can have ten white shirts and they can all be different So, pay attention to the color You want to go for something that has a point color, make sure it fits you well in the neck You can go for – right here we see a double cuff This is a cuff that folds over also known as a French cuff and you have to use a basically a cuff link to hold this together This is going to be one of the most formal types of cuffs out there There are a few different variations, but understand the kind that I’ve got right here this is going to be a barrel cuff A barrel cuff uses a single button and folds over on itself I would say for your first shirt that you’re going to wear with your first suit just simply go with the barrel cuff But, if you want to go with something with cufflinks, understand it’s a bit more flashy not something I’m going to recommend unless you really are owning that look So, here we’ve got another simple white shirt, but notice the small detail right here We’ve got buttons right here on the collar very similar to what I have here This is a very casual shirt This should not be something that you wear with your formal suit even with the tie Another thing, pocket no pocket, it’s a personal preference I like having no pockets on my shirts, but understand that sometimes you’re going to buy the shirt off the rack and they’re going to have pockets Now, I talked about blue being the other color and what I meant was light blue So, light blue has become acceptable in many circles as being actually a very formal shirt It’s going to work with a wide variety of ties and other accessories Now, these shirts right here are interesting because they actually have small patterns in them You can — you probably can’t see them here on the video, but this one right here has a small herringbone pattern in it, it overall looks solid And I think that actually this will look great with a navy blue suit even a charcoal gray suit and it would just look formal with a nice red tie Now, it does have notice the color right here, we’ve got a spread collar So, you’re going to want to make sure to tie the right type of knot that’s going to actually fill up that area there

This one right here has more of a point collar and it’s got a deeper more pronounced blue with an easier to spot pattern [0:15:08] This shirt would basically teeter on the end and I would almost say this one’s too memorable, this could be in your first ten shirts Maybe it wouldn’t be your first shirt that you would purchase to have the most formal look, but wear this with a red power necktie, it would still look great All right, guys, so these are examples of shirts that should not be part of your first suit look Why? They’re too casual This is a casual dark blue shirt Navy, one of my favorite colors, but it is casual It’s not something that you want to pair it with that new suit that you just got you’re wearing into an interview This right here too dark of a blue too casual right there This one right here, definitely very casual Now, if you’re applying to work at a very creative company you own your style, you want to wear this, I guess more power to you But, guys, guys I would recommend for most of us this is not interview attire Okay So, let’s talk neckties If you’re going into a business interview and you’re wearing a suit, you’re probably going to need to wear a necktie But, neckties come in a wide range of formality Over here, you’re going to see the more casual neckties; over here, the more formal So what makes a necktie casual one that you don’t want to have with your first suit? Well, if it’s made from a woven material that you can clearly see, yeah, if it’s made from wool probably a bit too casual If it has flowers on it, it’s got floral or paisley, that’s probably too casual If it’s got a really bold bright pattern, probably too casual Instead, what you want to look for are darker conservative colors with small repeating patterns or that are solid So, right over here, this is going to be classic Power red necktie with a small repeating pattern Again, small repeating patterns are fine Dark green with a small dot repeating pattern Right over here, solid purple Purple, the color of kings Right over here, dark blue with white and blue small repeating pattern Over here, we’re getting a little bit more casual something that’s going to grab a bit more attention and be more memorable But, again, small repeating patterns, it works Now, stripes Stripes are going to be a bit more casual, but they are perfectly fine to wear into most interviews You just want to make sure that you’re not wearing somebody’s military stripes If you’re not familiar with regimental stripes, just go ahead and check out Real Men Real Style, I go into a lot of detail there But, understand that, yeah, you want to be careful with stripes All right, gents, so when it comes to shoes what you’re looking for is black, dark brown, or oxblood Those are really your choices You want to go dark and you want to go conservative in the style So, the first thing you want to look for is closed-lacing Closed-lacing, this is basically where the front of the shoe is on top of the back part of the shoe This right here is a closed- lacing system An open-lacing system let me give you an example Right here, this is an open lacing system Notice how the back part of the shoe has been slapped on top of the front part of the shoe Another issue with this shoe right here and why I would not recommend this for your first suit it’s too light-colored Light-colored shoes in general are going to be more casual Another detail, look at stitching the heavy big stitching right here in and around here This is a great shoe, I love it, but this is going to be a more casual shoe that, yeah, you just want to may be pair with a casual suit So, some other options and I’m not saying you can’t go with a little bit of ornamentation This one right here has a bit of broguing here on the cap toe, but that’s about the extent you want to go to with decoration in on the shoe This one right here has a dark maroon almost, you know, a variation of oxblood type of color, it has the cap toe as well, no decoration and it has the closed-lacing Perfect for an interview Okay Right here, I’m starting to push the envelope I’m going with a little bit of contrast in the shoe We’ve got the lighter brown with the darker brown Still it’s got the closed-lacing system with the cap toe This one in my opinion would be fine But, let’s talk about the wholecut I’ve talked about the wholecut before I love this shoe It’s a modern classic in my opinion But, you need to understand that this is something that, you know, it may grab a bit of attention, so you may not want to wear it unless you’re really confident in the look and this is a shoe that you love Now, both of these shoes right, neither of them are good for an interview Why? This one right here, look at that lighter color with the pronounced brogue work and colors and design in this This one is too flashy and it’s very light-colored This one right here is a loafer This is a more casual shoe Notice it has no lacing on it And this is something you wouldn’t want to wear into an interview Next up, let’s talk about pocket squares Go with a simple cotton or linen Fold it over and go with the nice square presidential fold Very simple, very classic, very conservative, looks great Guys, that’s all you need When it comes to socks, don’t overthink this If you are in doubt at all, just go is simple dark black Go with something newer, you don’t want to go with faded socks and have holes If you want to have fun you want to bring a little bit of color, maybe bring in a dark-colored maroon a dark green Be careful especially if you’re going into an interview with something way too flashy

I mean if you want to show your personality, I guess it would be fine, but if you’re not confident, don’t wear it [0:20:07] All right, gents, now it’s your turn Let me know down in the comments what you think of this video And if you want more, you want the infographics, you want the pictures, you want to hear more details about the buttons, about the different fabrics, and all that other stuff in purchasing your first suit, guys, go check out the support article I’m linking to it down in the description This one I went into a lot of detail You can share it with your friends You can use it to make sure that you go out there and buy the right suit for you And, when you’re down there, guys, go check out Vincero as well And I love how Vincero has set it up so that you can actually take the bands you can take the watches they’re all interchangeable Just a great company I’m proud to have them as a sponsor guys, so go check them out Use that discount code It’s not going to be around forever Let me know down in the comments which of those watches you would like to have, how are you going to pair it with your first suit, what that’s going to look like because guys I’ve got quite a few of these And if you are a young man, let me know because I want to help some of you guys out I know that you’re just starting off on your style journey and I would love to help you out So, guys take care I’ll see you in the next video Bye-bye [0:21:08] End of Audio