hello and welcome to episode 1 of Sarastro zombicide Black Plague painting series in this episode we’re going to paint the three basic zombie types the walkers runners and fatties from cool mini or nuts as on beside Black Plague painting a shambling horde of zombies is a great way to get started in miniature painting as they’re fun easy and forgiving miniatures to paint because we want a grim and grungy look we can get away with using a single dark shade for the entire miniature we also only need a limited amount of highlighting and any mistakes we make can simply be covered with blood for this tutorial I’m using mostly a size 2 brush by Rosemary & Co and a mixture of paints by Citadel Vallejo and army painter and you should of course use any paint range and colors you like far from being a strict guide the aim of this video is simply to present a range of ideas and options that painters of any level should be able to draw from to get our black plague zombies painted up and looking great on the tabletop with that out of the way let’s look at the main steps we’ll be using to paint our zombies we’re going to begin by spraying the zombies with a primer we’ll look at the time-saving benefits of using colored primers but I’d also be showing the benefits of using just plain white will then apply neat flat base colors for the clothes and for zombies that haven’t been primed with a color primer we’ll explore a range of effective skin tones we’ll also look at a possible color scheme for the bases will then create a nice bit of depth in the shadows by shading the miniatures with a single wash or a shader and I’ll be comparing a range of products that you could use to do this well then finish the zombies off with some optional finishing touches including some limited highlights for the skin glowing eyes and of course adding some blood let’s begin although the mold lines on the zombicide miniatures are pretty discreet there may be one or two you might like to scrape off with a file or the edge of a craft knife such as we see here running down the side of this fatties arm next we need to prepare the miniature for painting by spraying on a primer most of the time we might use either black or white depending on whether the overall look of the miniature is going to be dark or light however there are some colored primers like the ones I’m using by army painter that also provide us with an effective base skin tone for our zombies which will save us having to paint those areas later on I’m going to use a combination of different primers to show the different results that can be achieved but you should of course use whichever primer you like or have access to or indeed use an airbrush I’m going to spray some of my zombies with an aquatic flash primer which will result in a greenish skin color I’m going to spray others using skeleton bone which will produce a beige colored finish and I’m going to spray the remaining zombies white over which I’ll be painting my own skin tones in the next stage such as the pale blue example we can see here when priming you ideally want to be in a well-ventilated area and rubber gloves and a breathing mask would also be useful whatever primer you use it’s important to follow the instructions which will usually tell you to shake the can for a good while before spraying and what kind of distance you need to spray from I’m applying light even spray from a couple of angles to a whole batch of zombies at a time just remember that it’s better to slightly under spray than to over spray a miniature as missing patches can always be touched up with a brush later on but spraying too much could destroy the details once dry I like to check each one individually and give an additional blast to hit any remaining areas that may have been missed when you’re done it’s a good idea to invert the can and spray until no more paint comes out to help prevent blockage now the zombies are primed we’re ready to begin painting any zombies not climbed with a color primer will now need to have their skin painted and you could get really creative with your choice of tone however if you like the greenish look of the necrotic flesh then either army painters plague skin or Citadel snuggling green will give a good match for a beige look similar to the skeleton bone primer than something like Carrick stone or a sharp t-bone would be fine a whole range of other skin tones are also possible and experimenting with different colors can be a fun process just remember that pale colors will work best and whatever color you use will turn out a fair bit darker and more Brown once we’ve added some shade here

for example you can see the effect achieved using citadel’s pallid which flesh as a base tone and after the shade and finishing touches light gray tones such as alpha and grey can also give us a beautifully lifeless skin turn pale purples and blues can also work very well here I’ve used vallejo’s pale blue and this is the tone I favored for the majority of mine on color primed zombies before painting it’s a good idea to find a way to mount your miniature such as with some white tack and a bottle cap to avoid having to handle the miniature directly whatever colour you use don’t forget to thin the paint with a couple of drops of water so we don’t smother any details you depending on the paint you will most likely need to apply two or three layers to achieve a strong even tone even if you have color primed your zombies you may still like to vary the skin tone of at least some of them for the sake of a little variety if you do choose a range of skin tones it might be useful to mark the initials of the colors used on the underside of each base just in case you forget which is which when it comes to adding the highlights however you choose to paint the skin once done you will now need to paint the clothes again using whatever colors you like the colors we might pick here may depend on the kind of life we imagine our medieval zombies had before being turned we might pick drab earthy colors for an expert for example sticking to pale beiges white and mid-tone Browns the colors of undyed cloth linen wool and leather a middle-class zombie might have been able to afford to dye their clothes blue green or even red purple however is a color we would expect to be seen worn only by royalty or the Pope and I’ll be reserving the color purple just for the necromancer which we’ll be covering in a future episode we might want to add some simple bold patterns for zombies that may have been wearing colors denoting allegiance to a certain house or faction or even paint on some striped patterns as was popular in the late Middle Ages particularly for the leggings we might also imagine what the court jester may have been wearing the night he drew his last breath using bold primary colors like this helps to add some vibrancy to a gray world and the nicely reflects the pageantry of the age it also throws into relief the grim horror of what has befallen these innocent village and town’s folk although I’ve given a suggestion of some of the main colors I’ve chosen I would encourage you to have a go at experimenting with color schemes of your own as it can be such a creative and rewarding process however a more concise record of some of the schemes I came up with can be found in the appendix at the end of this video whatever colors you do choose it’s a good idea to compensate for the darkening effect of the shade we’ll be adding in the next step by using generally mid-to light colored based tones this means the shade will still be able to darken the recesses down further giving us a stronger sense of definition and contrast other general tips include painting your zombies in batches and applying one particular color to different parts of a group of zombies to save time I might for example use this blue to paint the tunic of one zombie and then the leggings of another and so on this will help to speed up the process whilst also help to ensure that no two zombies will look alike it’s also a good idea to paint the belts first as it’s much easier to achieve our need to join by painting the surrounding area of fabric than it is to paint the thin bit of rope I also like to place contrasting colors or colors with contrasting levels of brightness next to one another or if I do have adjacent areas of a similar darkness I might add a contrasting trim to break the miniature up finally for the fatties it’s a good idea to paint the tongue before the teeth with a light pink then we can hit the teeth with some pure white painting on the base colors is by far the most time-consuming stage of the whole process but painting in batches of around 10 zombies would be a good way to break the task up what’s really needed though is a little patience and a simple enjoyments of the process before moving on you now need to make a

decision about the base the easiest thing to do would be to paint them a plain flat color such as grey or beige you might even want to use a different color for each zombie type to make them easier to identify on the board if this is the approach you choose you can do this in the finishing touches stage so that any splatter from the shade gets painted over alternatively you could replace the base entirely with a clear one which looks fantastic but does render the miniature more fragile as a result you can reference my previous zombie painting guides for more detail on how to do this the approach I’ve chosen for my Black Plague miniatures is to paint on a textured effect so that the zombies look more thematic and also blend in a little better with the board this looks more attractive than a plain base but it’s not as fragile as a rebased miniature and you could still use separate colors for the rims of each zombie type should you wish before painting the bases I’m going to mount each zombie onto a spare paint pot using some white stack this only takes a couple of minutes but we’ll make the base painting and shading step so much easier and cleaner here are the steps I’m using to paint my bases I’m starting with a base color of rock are flesh and I’m using a larger brush to speed things up and then using some storm vermin fur to paint on some cracks to create a flagstone effect this can include a mixture of regular and irregular patterns along with a few smaller cracks within some of the individual flagstones once that’s done I’m going to pick out some of the flagstones using two different lighter tones to create some variety I’m starting with some thinned screaming skull and painting around three random flag stones on each base the finish doesn’t have to be a specially flat or neat here as the board itself has quite a painterly illustrative style bear in mind that the shade we’ll be adding in the next step we’ll both darken the bass and mute the contrast and then doing the same with some palette which flash although you may find other colors that work just as well to finish the basis off I’m painting the rim with a dark brown although as mentioned many painters like to use a separate color for each zombie type for use of identification once shaded the finished result should give us a palette that broadly matches the tones on the board and although it may add another hour or two onto the painting time really adds to the overall look of the models once the base colors are complete we’re ready to do some shading now we need to use a shade or wash to darken the recesses of the miniature which would often mean using a different colored wash for each color on the miniature and this is certainly an approach you may wish to consider a green wash such as army painters plague shader for example would do a fine job of producing a vibrant green skin tone when used over the necrotic flesh a blue shade such as Drakon half nightshade used over this wolf gray gives a nice deep blue tone in the recesses however for a large group unclean zombies we can happily save a lot of time by using a single generic dark brown wash for the entire miniature there are several products we could use to do this and I’m going to try out a small selection on some test zombies so we can compare the results on one zombie I’m applying some of army painters deep shader as with most washes we simply apply it undiluted with a large brush letting the wash settle into the recesses before soaking up any excess for the second zombie I’m mixing equal quantities of Citadel’s acrux earth shade with some non oil both of which now come in extra large sizes finally I’m applying some of our me painters strong tone quick shade to zombie number three we apply this like a wash but because it’s so thick we will need to spend a little longer soaking up

the excess and because it dries to a high gloss we also need to apply a matte varnish to take the shine off looking at the results along with an unshaded zone before comparison we can see that both the army painter and Citadel washes have significantly darkened the entire miniature with the more expensive Citadel wash doing a pretty fine job of deepening the tone in the recesses which is particularly noticeable in the facial details the quick shade however produces a more striking level of contrast giving us deep opaque levels of shade in the recesses but allowing more of the original lighter base tone to show through in the raised areas it’s also remarkable just how smoothly the quick shade manages to affect these transitions of dark to light this means that a figure that’s been shaded with quick shade will require little or no highlighting using a more traditional wash is still an option if you can’t get hold of the quick shade however although you may have to do a little more work with your highlights afterward to achieve a good level of contrast quick shade is therefore the product I’ll be using for my zombies and although it’s ostensibly the most expensive option the cost per milliliter is actually less than half that of the Citadel washes and it will also last for years and easily cover several hundred miniatures before applying the quick shade is a good idea to lay down some paper for wiping the excess onto you will also need some mineral turpentine or white spirit as it’s called in the UK to clean your brush with afterwards after giving the can a good shake I’m taking a fairly large old brush to begin coating each zombie with the quick shade for the walkers and runners around three large brush Falls should easily cover the miniature including the base just ensure that the entire surface is coated as any gaps will look out of place once the quick shade has dried I’ll then spend a minute or so soaking up the excess quick shade repeatedly dubbing it away and wiping it on the paper I will then recheck the figure a few minutes later to see if any more quick shade has pulled anywhere it isn’t wanted including around the edge of the fee we’re looking to remove shade from any places where it may be smothering importance details but also from flats or raised parts of the form that we would usually expect to be an area of highlights at this stage you might be wondering if you haven’t just ruined your lovingly painted zombies and it does take a small leap of faith to trust that they will look amazing in the end once done they will need to be left for 24 hours to fully cure during which time they will dry to an extremely durable high gloss finish this level of protection is the reason I’ve also shaded the rim of the base to remove the shine I’m going to use testers dull coat although there are several other brands of matte or satin varnish that will also do the job a couple of even coats for multiple angles will remove that gloss varnish and allow us to see just how effective the quick shade has really been at this point you could consider your zombies complete as we have a durable richly shaded and varied zombie horde that is perfectly good enough to hit the table let’s now look at some optional finishing touches you might like to add if you want to take your zombies that’s a bit further the first finishing touch I’m going to add is some delicate highlights for the skin focusing mostly on the face area to do this I’m using a slightly lighter version of the original base skin tone so for the zombies sprayed with necrotic flesh for example I’m going to take some plague skin and lighten it by mixing in a little white I’m thinning the paint slightly more than I did when applying the base colors I’m then using this to gently emphasize the top of the nose the cheekbones and maybe the brow and tip of the chin this just helps to boost the luminosity of the skin tone and makes the face and eyes in particular more of a focal point because of the thinness of the paint I can build these highlights up in a couple of layers gently increasing the intensity to my liking I might also pick out one or two raised details from elsewhere on the miniature this is quite a subtle touch to add especially if you’ve used the quick shade as the miniature already has quite a strong sense of contrast but if you’ve used a traditional wash it may be a more necessary step to give us the required sense of depth likewise for the zombies with a pale blue skin and once again mixing a little white into the base tone to produce the highlight for the zombies played with skeleton bone I’m using some shap t-bone

if you’ve used a very light color such as palette which flesh or alpha and grey for the skin then a simple reapplication of the base tone without any additional white should be fine if you haven’t used the quick shade you may also want to highlight some of the clothes in the same way using the original based colors but I would avoid over highlighting these areas as it’s the skin that we really want to stand out the most the second finishing touch I’ve chosen to add is some glowing eyes to do this I’m simply creating a very pale mix of the color I want the eyes to be such as this Moot green and white mix and using it to paint a small dot in each eye socket it’s a good idea to have a dark-brown such as Rhine oxide handy to perform any retouching that may be necessary when things go wrong we could then apply a small amount of a matching colored glaze such as way watch a green which we can use unfilled straight out of the bottle this can cover the actual eye along with some of the surrounding area to heighten the glowing effect notice that the color can appear slightly stronger once the glaze is dry the same approach could be used for whatever color you like such as blue for example here I’m applying the light blue mix followed by the blue glaze and for one final example I’m trying out some yellow eyes with the highlights and eyes complete I might provide one final protective matte spray before adding some blood which I’m applying last as I wanted to retain a wet glossy look for the blood we could use something like Citadel’s blood for the blood Guard which should be used on thinned and gives us a bright scarlet hue and a glistening finish however I’ll be using the same recipe as used in my previous zombie painting tutorials which is some Tamiya clear red mixed with a little dark brown and some black by varying the amount of the brown and black we can produce a nice range of effects from older more dried looking bloodstains – fresh glistening wounds and spatter a few drops on the base can also look effective applying different amounts of blood to each zombie gives us yet one more way of introducing a nice bit of variety and also a good opportunity to cover up any scrappy bits of painting we might not be happy with you with that done our zombie horde is complete thank you for watching please feel free to like comment and subscribe you can also connect with me on Facebook and Twitter to ask questions or share your own work to support me in my efforts to produce even more content you can do so by clicking the patreon link where you can also gain access to additional behind-the-scenes content my huge thanks go out to the growing Legion of current patrons who are so generously

financing all of the work that I do join me again soon as we’ll be returning to paint the necromancerr abomination and heroes from zombie side Black Plague happy painting you you