hello everyone and welcome. In today’s video I install the rear suspension into the Firebird, I begin a complete suspension overhaul on the Impreza, and I’m giving away a set of RC vehicle accessories the Firebird drift build is back! Welcome everyone to the first update of this rather unique RC build. First off I want to thank you all for making the last video I made featuring this project absolutely blow up. I’ve received so much interest in this project and a ton of comments and support from so many of you it blows my mind and to be honest has even added a bit of pressure to this build. There’s no instructions, warranty, or guarantees when building a unique scratch-build RC car like this and now with so many people watching and eager to see this car drifting on point, my desire to get this thing built and dialed in is stronger than ever. Before I dive back into this build I want to do a quick recap on this project and answer a few questions that I was frequently asked in the previous video. This project started when I wanted to build an RC drift car using a 1/24 scale plastic model as a base, so I ended up choosing this 1991 Pontiac Firebird you see here which I got for dirt cheap on eBay. It turned out that an axle I had built for a custom drag car fit perfectly onto the Firebird, so I decided to use it even though a solid axle won’t allow for much adjustability from there I went ahead and disassembled the car into its individual pieces and sized up some of the components I’ll be using. I was pleased to discover that the car seems to be a great platform for a custom RC conversion. It’s got a great one-piece chassis and it’s pretty roomy in fact I’m hoping I’ll be able to keep the interior tub fully intact. I do want to add as much scale realism to this car as possible but if I have to make some sacrifices here and there it’s no big deal. This project like most vehicles I build is not meant to be a shelf queen. I build custom cars like this because I enjoy the processes involved in their creation and I enjoy driving them as well. I got a ton of questions in the previous video where I introduced this project. I always try to answer as many questions as I can as well as respond to as many comments as possible, however with a large quantity of comments I’ve received recently it’s hard to respond to them all so I’m going to address a few here that were asked the most The first being all the questions regarding the rear axle I’m using. As mentioned in the previous video the axle is custom made by me. Everything aside from the shafts and bearings are 3D printed. I do plan on selling these axles along with a chassis kit in the future right now more design revisions and testing needs to be done before I’m ready to start offering these axles for sale. I talked a little bit about this in more detail in the 2017 look-back video. I’ll be sure to keep you all up to date both here on the channel as well as on the other social media platforms. Another question I received was why I chose a 91 Firebird for this build. Certainly the main factor was cost, this car only sent me back about three bucks which is a fraction of what a new kit costs and even though it was already partially assembled when I got it, it came apart without too much trouble and all the parts I need are in great shape. I do like the look of these cars although it’s certainly not my first choice of vehicle for a drift build but around here finding super cheap model kits of Nissans, Toyotas, Mazdas, and cars more commonly associated with drifting is more difficult. Sure I could buy a new kit but with the experimental nature of this kind of RC build I’d rather start with a dirt cheap model as a base rather than dumping 20, 30, 40 bucks on a new Tamiya or Fujimi kit and have that build end up being a flop. For future builds I will definitely be going with one of those kits as a base, in fact I’ve already begun a build using a brand new Tamiya kit but more on that later. For now I’m gonna keep it simple and keep it cheap and work my way to better and more expensive builds as I get a bit more experience with these kinds of projects. Plus using a Firebird as a base makes this project even more unique and one-of-a-kind. Speaking of the Firebird, I asked you guys for some suggestions on how I should go about modifying the appearance of the car in the last video. I got a ton of comments and you guys have some great ideas here’s where I’m at right now as far as the appearance. For wheels I designed some basic steel wheels heavily inspired by Cragar Series 397 Soft 8s with some PLA 3D printed tires. Now I may change these up at some point but right now I think these wheels look pretty sick on this car. Easily the most suggested thing you wanted to see on the body was fender flares. At first I wasn’t quite sure how I wanted to design them. I figured I didn’t want to go with anything too crazy just to keep things clean and simple. Like with most other projects I began looking for photos of full-scale 3rd gen Firebirds, Camaros, and other similar vehicles with fender flares to get some inspiration. I came across an image of this promotional sales brochure that has a Trans Am with factory fender flares. I think these look pretty nice on the car so I decided to design mine similarly to how these looked. One difference I made with mine though is I decided to make mine bolt on flares just

to give them a little more of a custom look I really like how they look on the car these are just a test set of flares, I’m gonna be reprinting them using different settings and support structure to help get them looking a little bit better. I also made this LS engine topper for the motor. Not sure how scale I’ll be able to make the engine bay look but regardless I think it looks pretty cool moving on to the rear suspension I needed to mount the trailing arm ends to the chassis. In order to give myself a good place to glue them on I wanted to first cut and sand away the mounts that are molded into the chassis piece I started with some sharp Tamiya side cutters and began cutting away the mounts i next wanted to file down the area’s smooth. Before doing this though I wanted to use a little bit of masking tape to protect some of the surrounding areas the matte black finish on this chassis looks pretty good and I’d like to keep as much of it unscathed as possible. The small Tamiya flat file fit perfectly and did a great job of sanding the surface smooth I needed to do a little bit of further sanding with some coarse grit sandpaper, this will also help the glue to adhere to the chassis a little better I’ve now got a nice flat surface on the chassis to glue the trailing arm mounts to. At this point I wanted to attach the wheels and see how everything lined up. It’s looking great, although I might have to remove some material from the chassis around where the center of the trailing arm is to allow the car to sit a bit lower. Next I went ahead and glue the trailing arm mounts to the chassis. I did my best to make sure that the axle was positioned correctly. I wanted the axle to be as close to perfectly perpendicular relative to the chassis as possible. I know I could have been a little more precise about lining it up but I think going off of site should be good enough for this car. I just used a small dab of super glue to secure the mounts so if the mounts need to be removed or repositioned it’s no big deal with the trailing arm mounts in place I moved on to the springs. I needed to install the spring mounts to the chassis I started by placing the coil springs on the axle so I could get an idea of where I needed to place the mounts fortunately the surface where I needed to place the mounts is flat since it’s basically the same spot where the springs would be on a full-sized car of course I will be making these Springs much shorter later on, right now I’m just using them for alignment. I secure the mounts by placing a dab of Shoe goo on the chassis, then I position the mounts so that it is aligned with the other mount on the axle. The Shoe goo is a little sloppy and doesn’t look the best but it’s thick and slow drying allowing me to easily position the mount where I need it. I repeat the same process on the other side, doing my best to make the alignment as good as possible everything seems to be looking good so far. I don’t think I’ll be using any magnets on this car at least not in the rear. The magnets act a bit like shock absorbers but I plan on keeping the suspension low and stiff with just a little bit of travel so I don’t think it will be very crucial on this vehicle plus there is really no good place to mount them on this chassis. In order for them to work optimally, the position and spacing has to be precise. I might mess around with adding some magnets in the future but for now I’m gonna stick with just the springs. Next I need to install the panhard bar mount to the chassis this is also being mounted in roughly the same location as where it would be on a full-scale car. This was very easy to mount just behind where the spring mount is on that flat section, but I wanted to cut out a little notch on the mount so that It could sit a little further back. I used a Dremel and a couple of files to create the knotch and then I glued the mount to the chassis with the mount in place, I then moved on to sizing up the panhard bar. I did some

rough measurements from the axle to the chassis mount and cut the panhard bar rod to that length I began test-fitting the panhard bar, grinding down the rod little by little until it was the correct length. Once I got the length correct, I mounted the panhard bar, and checked for play, and studied the alignment of the rear suspension everything looked and felt great, the suspension seems to be aligned well and the movement of the axle felt smooth and there isn’t a ton of side-to-side play. Although the alignment of the panhard bar isn’t perfect, the position of the chassis mount is not quite right and I’d like to make the panhard bar closer to being perfectly parallel to the axle than what it is right now I don’t think that’ll have much of a negative impact on the suspension but we’ll see With everything looking and feeling good I was ready to complete the Assembly of the rear suspension. I installed the springs and mounted the panhard bar I’m really liking just how scale the rear suspension looks. Despite just placing everything in mostly by sight, the alignment as far as I can tell looks good and the suspension feels great There’s the tiniest bit of play in the axle moving from side to side and just a little bit when twisting the axle. It’s not ideal but I needed a little bit of wiggle room since I was placing everything by sight. I honestly thought there would be a bit more play than this so I’m pretty pleased with the result, and I don’t think this play will have much of an effect on the drift ability of the car. On future builds where I use a custom design chassis I’ll be able to make the tolerances much tighter and the alignment extremely accurate. I will definitely need to remove a chunk of the chassis around where the trailing arms are in order to get the rear suspension to sit much lower I’ll also be shortening the springs a bit too. But so far so good next step is gonna be to build the front suspension and steering linkage. I’ve already begun brainstorming and sketching out the design. Ideally I want to make the front suspension a McPherson strut and a linkage type steering system since that’s what the full-scale Firebirds had I’m fairly confident I’ll be able to pull it off but if not I’ve got other options as well. So earlier I showed a little teaser of this Tamiya R32 Skyline kit. I purchased this probably about a year or two ago for an RC conversion that I’ve yet to complete. This chassis has a four-wheel independent suspension and all-wheel drive Everything’s been designed all I need to do is print any remaining parts and build the chassis. It’s more of a conventional RC chassis design so whatever I build with it is not going to be nearly as scale as the Firebird. My intention was to build the Skyline body and mount it to this chassis, but now I’m tempted to do a build more similar to that of the Firebird where I design components that will fit directly onto the kit’s chassis piece. I’ll still build up this chassis regardless but what I may do is either 3D print a body for it or choose a different model kit Of course I’ll be sure to showcase the progress of each of these builds here on the channel as well as on the other social media pages next up I’m gonna be doing some work on the Subasharu. This is another project I’ve featured several times before, it’s a tenth scale 2007 Subaru Impreza on top of a custom 3D printed all-wheel drive chassis setup for rally cross racing In the previous video I did featuring this car I did a lot of work on the body including adding lights, interior pieces, and some pretty sick looking exterior accessories. Today however I’m turning my attention to the chassis. As I mentioned in the last video, I want to make some serious modifications to the chassis including new control arms, steering linkage, differential housings, shock mounts, and steering knuckles. Initially when I designed the chassis I wanted as many parts on it to be 3d printable as possible with just a basic FDM 3D printer being capable of producing those parts. I was able to accomplish this goal

with a lot of success. From the steering knuckles to the half shafts and the steering linkage, pretty much anything that could be printed is printed. The result is good and certainly unique but as you can imagine going this route certainly has some drawbacks. All of the ball and socket connections on this chassis both with the steering and suspension are 3D printed. They work okay but getting precise fitment and minimal play as well as a smooth fluid motion is a bit difficult due to the surface layering. For the new parts I’m designing instead of 3d printing the ball part of the joint I’m going to be using stainless steel balls and mounting them to the 3d printed part. The steel components will be perfectly smooth and the dimensions will be extremely accurate so I’m hoping I can get them to fit great and move smoothly. The weak link of this chassis is definitely the half-shafts, the plastic protrusions that transfer the power from the differentials to the wheels are not very strong. The solution will be to replace those plastic protrusions with a solid metal rod that will be secured to the 3D printed part. Also the upper shock mounts need to be designed stronger. Part of the problem too is that the shocks I’m using are not really ideal for this application these are touring-car shocks with stiff springs and you can see I have the tension set really high to try and increase the right height of the vehicle I need to fit some more appropriate shocks onto this vehicle something longer and with a bit more travel. That will definitely help as well as I want to move the lower shock mount inwards Right now it’s extended further away from the lower control arm than what I want. This chassis does have some other drawbacks and things I’d like to improve but those are the main issues I really want to address with these new parts I’m designing. My task for this evening was to tear down all of the suspension components in preparation for the new parts. I’m not gonna spend a whole lot of time going into a ton of detail about what I’m doing since this is a custom chassis, but once I get these new and improved parts designed and everything seems solid I do plan on making the STL files for this chassis available. As I’ve mentioned before this is one of my older designs and I would like to design a completely new and thoroughly improved touring car chassis at some point in the future. I know I could design a chassis far superior to this one but I’ve received a lot of interest in this platform so I figured I’d make a few revisions to it and make the files available. This is a fairly conventional touring car chassis design there’s nothing overly unique about it aside from the modular design of the differential housings and motor mounts You’ll see what I mean a little later on as I get a bit further with the disassembly. I wanted everything on this chassis to be modular and as easy to mount as possible so it would work on a wide variety of different custom applications, as opposed to something like a stock Tamiya TT-02 tub chassis where the motor mount and lower differential mounts are all one solid piece. That design is less desirable from a custom builder standpoint since if you wanted to remove the rear suspension assembly of a TT-02 or some similar chassis and mount that to your own custom scratch-built chassis, that maybe you cut out of aluminum or whatever It would be very difficult, but with the design I chose you could easily take the differential and suspension assembly as a unit and you can mount it onto pretty much whatever you want as long as it fits it’s just secured using four M3 screws through the bottom. Just connect the driveshaft and you’re ready to rock Hopefully that makes sense, if not I’m sure I’ll be doing some builds in the future where I utilize these modular components. You can see what I’m referring to here, both control arms and the upper shock mount is mounted to the differential housing block, and nothing here aside from the differential housing is mounted directly to the chassis. Most of the parts you see here are going to be replaced I’m still making sure to keep track of everything such as the screws which are going to be reused I would like to swap them out for some stainless steel hex head machine screws but these get the job done bagging in labeling parts is always a great idea especially if it might be a while till you get a chance to put it all back together. Now I’m moving on to the front differential housing which is essentially identical to the rear. I I gotta say it feels pretty nice working on a one-tenth scale car after fiddling around with that 1/24 scale Firebird Everything feels so big and easy to access by comparison. And that’s about all there is to it, I went ahead and bagged up the front suspension components. I went ahead and left the steering linkage in but I’ll be taking that out in the near future and replacing that as well. So now I’ve got a nice clean slate to mount all those new

parts to. I’ve still got a little more CAD work I need to do before I’m ready to start printing and installing the new parts but I should be ready to do so within the next couple of weeks. I’m looking forward to getting this thing put back together seeing how the new parts perform and sliding this thing around in the snow as well as getting the files uploaded and seeing what kinds of cars you guys build to celebrate the new year and this channel passing 20,000 subscribers I’m doing a giveaway of these custom 3D printed 1/10 scale accessories. The winner will get everything you see here including these two racing seats, large intercooler, and steering wheel. To enter is very simple, make sure you are subscribed to the channel and that you have liked the video and leave a comment below and make sure you include hashtag giveaway The winner will be randomly selected before February 2nd. Now it could be a week from now it could be two weeks from now it could be three weeks from now but the winner will be selected and the contest will be over before February 2nd The winners name will be announced within a future video After I announce their name the winner has four days from the time the video was uploaded to send me a message by clicking the About tab on the channel and then on the send message button. If I don’t get a message from the winner within 4 days, I’ll select another name thank you guys so much for making this channel grow and for all of the support I’m trying out a little different format for future videos. I’m gonna be uploading a new video every Friday showcasing all the progress I’ve made on any project during that past week just like I did in this video. I’m gonna try out this format for a little while and see how you all like it and see how I like it and make any adjustments as need be. I’ll also be doing more driving videos and full build videos in addition to these weekly uploads every now and then as well that’s all for this video thank you all for watching I hope you have a great day, and I’ll see you next time