good morning it could be afternoon who knows my name is Andy young and I’m one of the lecturers down at Unitec in all Auckland New Zealand and I teach automotive and during the year I like to produce videos which I can then use within my lectures to help cover the course content for my students and allow them to see me operating in a working environment and to see real-world diagnostics problems and of course repairs now when this particular vehicle behind me is the Yamaha Viking it’s one of the 2013 vintage and it lives on one of the islands just off away from Auckland a novelty which one and it works on a farm because it’s only about 18 months old it’s been worked extremely hard and the the Diagnostics so far it’s got a suspected blown head gasket it could be a cracked hair dacovia cracked barrel essentially there’s overheating going on it’s losing water the primary fail we believe was and the thermostat something very simple the thermostat had failed and it had failed to open one day the operator of the vehicle unfortunately forgot didn’t notice that the engine was overheating and continue to drive it with with the engine and beyond its normal running temperature which has caused I’d feel the head gasket to fail now the vehicle has travelled quite a distance to my workshop because there was nobody in Auckland prepared to work on it so I took up the challenge and now it isn’t just an engine repair job we’ve got full service and overhaul to do on the vehicle with the brakes to check an overhaul wheel bearings my kind of stuff but the main task is of course the engine repair and to aid the filming so you can really see what’s going on and to make this these videos bit more comprehensive we’re going to I’m going to include an engine removal and refit Mint’s to this vehicle and we’re going to do the actual engine stripped down the top-end stripped down inspection on the bench now in a real world environment in a workshop to do a replacement head gasket on this particular vehicle we do not need to remove the engine at all that work we’ve done in situ but it’s gonna make it much easier to film and for you to see what’s really going on so here we go we’re going to make a start I’m going to pull off the rear tray that will gain access to the engine we’ve got rear wheels to take off drive shafts to take out a lot of engine mounts wiring and stuff drain the coolant and then we can get the engine taken out it’s gonna be very stop start kind of video there’s lots of work to do one thing that’s absolutely imperative when doing this kind of work is to ensure that you have the manufacturers workshop manual for the vehicle that you’re working on there’s going to be a heaps of nuts and bolts that will be pulling undoing and then retighten again later on and we need to know talk settings for that you can’t do up head bolts without knowing a torque setting you know you could over crush the head gasket which could could pull the threads on the bolts there any Intel iminium if we don’t tighten those bolts up tight enough then it caused the head gasket could fail again we need to know specifications to when we’re checking to see if the head on that engine has warped we need to know what what’s a specification or what what’s the tolerance what could it be up to when we measure that there’s there’s a lot of stuff that we need to know and really you shouldn’t be doing a job like this until you’ve been able to source the relevant information now the World Wide Web somebody out there has probably uploaded one of these manuals I have what I need I have contacts that Yamaha which is very helpful for me I actually work for Yamaha some days what I can’t do for copyright purposes is show you the manual what I can do is as I’m going through the job is to tell you the torque settings so you’ll find in this video on the engine rebuild certainly the stripped down and rebuild I will cover all torque specifications the bolts as we go through the video and that is critical you’ll need that information to do this job okay so first of all we’re going to remove the tray gain access I want to do some further diagnostic work to confirm for myself that it is a coolant system failure the

head gasket has gone others there’s some breach in the in the integrity of the cooling system so we’re losing pressure and we can do that using a coolant system pressure tester we can also run the engine up and we can see pulsations maybe on the actual tester gauge which is combustion pressures being pumped into the cooling system because again there’s a leak somewhere maybe the head gasket cracked head whatever so we’ll do that we’ll make a start pulling some bits and pieces off I want to cover Diagnostics first and that may well be for me to on video in itself if it is then of course I’ll do a different intro later on but we need to first of all confirm that this problem is in fact within the engine if it’s been caused by an external leak somewhere but hey we don’t even take the engine out you know it’s a totally different job and you know we’ll tackle it based on what we find okay so we’re gonna pull the tray off get access to the engine and go from there okay so the bed in itself is held on we’ve got a gas strip over there that needs to be unbolted and to very simply two little pins so first job is going to be to remove this the a slips off the pins that are there ready to pull out pull the gas strut off and then we’re gonna lift a better way take away in the Train of those fingers up okay so we’re taking the rear trail easy task all we did was remove the gas truck top mount we have the pins to pull out and of course the rear lighting wiring harness very simple some a few clips took about 5/8 and that gives us a lot more access now to to the engine we’re gonna have to remove quite a bit of stuff actually we’ll start off with the heat plate top mount and we’ll get the exhaust out of the way so now I get access to the engine we

just go do some more Diagnostics now though check that the coolant system is full water and link stuff live donors that install a coolant pressure tester basically it’s just a pump which clips on top of the radiator you can see all about how to use one of these in my coolant testing video and what we do now is we filled up the radiator full of coolant as it was very very low which the customer have been telling us that there be constantly topping up the water so all we do now is pressurize the system and we’re going to see if it’s going to hold pressure now if there’s an external leak then we’re going to see water being pushed out of the system onto the floor if it’s an internal leak on the engine for example the head gasket then there’s a chance it’s going to actually force water into the cylinder now obviously if we try if that happens and we try to start the engine once water has been pushed into cylinder then the the cylinder could hydraulic now if that’s the case you do risk bending the con rod so it’s always a good idea once you’ve done this test to remove the spark plug and spin the engine over or not start the engine but if you are going to start the engine then you need to take the spark plug out spin the engine over make sure there’s no water in the cylinder put the spark plug back in and then you could start the engine up okay so we’re going to pressurize it up okay so yeah yeah we’re clearly losing pressure on that it’s not just from the capital stopping that so we have got a leak now the next thing to do is to have a look underneath the vehicle and see if we’ve got any water dripping down and I thought we don’t so we’re going to assume because of no external leak and we have got a drop in pressure but the leak must be internal to the engine now if we check the spark plug out now and crank the engine over and we get water coming out of the cylinder then that gives us confirmation it’s definitely a leak within the engine now it could be head gasket it could be a crack in the head expensive or a crack in the barrel remember these are motorcycle engines called bike engines the barrel is not part of the block like on a car and the barrel can be replaced so it could be one of those three things regardless of which one it is it’s going to be a top-end rebuild so we’re going to find that fault when we pull the engine apart on the bench so we’ll move back to the rear of the vehicle we will pull the spark plug out and then we’ll crank the engine over and see if we’ll get any water out okay okay so we go just give it a crank yeah okay lots of water so that was excellent the phone holds out we’ve had 100% confirmation that we’re getting coolant into the cylinder when we pressurize in the system we don’t need to do any more diagnostic checks on that so now we need to remove the engine get it up on the workbench and we’re going to strip it down on the bench like I was saying earlier on in a normal workshop environment they wouldn’t waste the labor time taking the engine out of the vehicle the cylinder there’s a cylinder head barrel very very accessible on this

Yamaha Viking and all the work will be done in Scituate ache in the motor out at all the reason why I’m taking it out is to make it easier for you guys to see exactly what’s going on makes it much easier for filming basically so we are putting a lot more extra effort in there so yeah I may not use the whole footage it’s going to take quite a while to get this motor out I may just stop stat and just do a recap of what we’ve taken out initially we’re going to remove the top crossmember we’re going to remove the exhaust system and all the induction pipes then we’re going to disconnect the wiring harness from the engine and then finally we’ll be undoing the engine mounts I reckon it should take us about an hour maybe an hour and a half to get its motor taken out we do need to drain what cool there is left as well we otherwise we’ll end up with a very wet workshop so we’ll push the vehicle outside to do that okay let’s make a start we made that I want to get some photos as well with all the wiring harness positioning I know I’ll put some stuff girl yeah some of it during that break actually you don’t forget yes all right come to lick the water well this had good conformation is definitely why don’t you leave it on take the pipes off the engine are you taking off that I was gonna say

to the pipe Oh peg there’s nobody in like electrical flow designed it without you okay so we removed the exhaust system we’ve removed the top plate on the engine mounting it’s broken it’s more of a brace I think that the trade is drops down on to what I like to do at this point in time is I take photos showing all the routing of the wiring where the club’s girl all that kind of stuff doesn’t matter what vehicle is we’re doing an engine removal replacement whether it’s a car or bike whatever it’s very useful information and stuff that you don’t normally see on manufacturers drawings cable routing is is a specific thing in itself and very often you don’t have access to those manuals so take a few photos and then you can refer back to those later on when you’re reassembling the vehicle can the engine put back in there and those photos are invaluable they’ve got me out of trouble many many times so I’m going to stop the film take some photos and then we’ll start up again you okay so we’ve got a cut to a stage now and in the disassembly removal of the engine where we need to drain the coolant so we’re gonna wheel the vehicle outside but on a stability on the on the workshop floor it’s basically just water in there anyway now the customers been topping this with the water for quite some time so all the coolant basically is being burns away so all really outside will drain the coolant will back in and then we can make a start pulling up all the induction pipes continue to unplug the loom and then finally we can work our way down to the engine mountings and lift it down right vehicle is back in the workshop after draining what turns out to be very very little water outlet cooling system even the spiders topping the radiator up we didn’t bother to bleed it up because it could be quite a big job on one of these things the radiators are at the front engines right at the back lots of long pipes turns out there’s lots of air in the cooling system so now we’re going to continue with and moving the air

induction pipes and your eyes for saying this might be under pressure yeah fuel pipe that’s the pressurized they’re smoking some next night I really doesn’t go clean this truck on a flat screwdriver that means yeah well that’s just the belt right you found me a little flat screwdriver GPS Wow everything’s really throttle cable disconnect

although could just hit the throttle body I can move that on the very clash so yeah flat screwdriver you’re mental number three allen key socket yeah I’ll give you the ratchet mom it’s been cool oil in the airbox so that would be water that’s got into the engine oil and then then boiled off so it’s another indication of a blown head gasket so yeah everything is looking very promising is to correct Diagnostics okay so by keeping the throttle body on the vehicle you could remove at some point anyway meet your dog disturb the throttle cable which makes my Pilates do that want to see if we’ve got a plastic bag somewhere we’ll just put that in the back coming outside that yeah okay I know I put on that had to part later on taking the head off we’ve got the in the induction for the belt cooling system here as well and I’ll make sure we’re not getting dirt down there okay so we’ve got some linkage to disconnect cheese here the gears that’s just on our clip that’s easy that pull out actually really used to work on weld on Yamaha very happy where they still apart now little Clips like this I like to put them back on where they came from so I know I know where they go makes it easier later on another big pile of bits you can now very things do engine bits

okay so just removing the gear selector bracket I have to play around with the adjustment of that wrong need a longer extension Oh okay well that appears to be old wiring off good news so they after quite a neat job cute things now all that’s remaining now is filling through the engine mountains and then if you lift this melter out and hit put on event we’ve disconnected all the

wiring harness particular throttle body off the engine that’s staying on the vehicle that way without me to play around with a proper trailer and the adjustments I’ve disconnected the bracket for the gear selection so again we’re not changing any of the adjustments on the table all the induction piping has been taken off that’s the induction fighting for the belt cooling that we’ve got a CVT Drive and they have a very large induction system to help cool that drive belt and on the induction the air intake system for the Indian however we’ve found some emulsified oil nut oil mixed with water inside the final airbox prior to the induction their total body which is another indication that the oil for the engine has become contaminated with water and of course that water is the water has been getting into the cylinder has been running down the side of the Rings getting past the piston rings probably when the vehicles stationary and turned off remember the cooling system is still under pressure and so the pressure is pushing the water through that against it it’s filling up the cylinder and it’s running down the side of the piston overnight into the crankcase and contaminating the oil when the engine warms up to operating temperature that that water in the oil turns to steam and it gets pushed out through the breathers with some of the oil into the airbox and that’s where we get to find that that residue okay so we’re not far off now pull the engine mountings and then we can get it lifted out so to get access or an engine mounts occur if you move this external cooling pipe South in it won’t it’s raining and sunny with some cutouts I mean can you see if there’s another bolt Vincent this one bolt obvi just the one no money on I’ll step up the staff and other feedback can you go I’m just gonna order a new o-ring for this paper ball no yeah fountain water Oh what nice so that’s the pipe that we need to remove to get access to one of the engine mountings you’ve got two months here got a late mill and a 14 on engine mountain that’s the green engine was well yeah so where is it we might use that I think you tell seniors they use the little tiny boat on the back of the rock yes okay so lastly open the engine mounts which yeah even so I’ll do this one back here

why don’t you throw underneath them do the big 40 my seventeen that holes the bounce for the chassis yes an engine you put auntie mangoes okay so I go down the stairs are this thick you tell them that’s a safety thing yeah because we’re gonna be talking about adding enjoy they should be set an angle will be straight down okay so hopefully you see them on the

camera now basically everything has now been disconnected the engine mounting is it loose we’re gonna set these moist and we’re gonna lift this engine out using the hoist and then we’re gonna put it onto the trolley give it a good whirl and a seal all orifices put the spark plug back in from the pending pipe working stuff because it is quite dirty being a farmer’s vehicle and we don’t want to contaminate okay next jump and engine hoist Oh okay so other than the engine mountings we had the driveshaft remove and we’ve now had to pretty much strip out most of the cab area and for two reasons the main reason actually was the stator wiring plug is there and we had to remove the airbox to get access to it thanks Yamaha cheers for that another half an hour’s work so we’ve got to unplug all that loom and put this data and the the ignition pick up and so on from the loom at the same time we then disconnected the front drive shaft now we’re hoping it’s not necessarily going to happen we’re hoping that the rear drive shaft down there log which is splined into the output the same way as the front once we get the engine airborne we can then slide it forwards in the shin the chassis slightly to disconnect that rear drive shaft once that’s done then we can lift the engine free from the chassis and then we get it washed okay so there you go a bit of extra work this vehicle is going to get a complete pressure wash down to get rid of all this farm stuff because it’s obviously a fire hazard as well can’t send it back to the customer in that condition that’s for sure inje now turned out to be slightly

lighter ee first though with the issues of wiring and really wanted to come out the state this vehicle is terrific so now the indians out give it a really much pressure wash down and at least in a presentable the amount of straw tucked away or it shouldn’t be was covering up the cool pipes as well now stories are rebelling straws are really good incisor yamaha will have based their testing on this vehicle on those coolant pipes not being covered in straw and those cool effects are gonna radiate some heat away whilst the coolers heading to the radiator and on its way back and if those coolant pipes are very distorted or straw then we’re going to lose some of the cooling effect on this vehicle which could contribute towards an overheating scenario I mean here in New Zealand it is pretty hot some days you know how have had problems in the past or elaborate on what but they have had other eating problems with some of the Rhinos so you know anything that’s going to impede the transfer of heat away from the engine is going to be a bad thing and looking at the state of the vehicle or the fact that it hasn’t really been washed out ever both of it that’s bad maintenance and it’s it’s not helped and it’s certainly I think contribution there’s culture beauty tools that stay here okay I’ll get the engine washed off and we’ll get it up on the bench and we’ll start pulling it stripping the head down we’ll see what’s going on with a head gasket but I’m very very confident that if a head gasket fed by this vehicle okay you