hi my name is Danny from double-a works and I do auto repair and also I do performance engine tuning of primarily Volkswagen Audi BMW and Porsche vehicles so I get asked a lot of the same questions over and over again and so I decided to try to make a video that would sort of show people behind the scenes a little bit of how tuning a car works and hopefully answer some of the questions that I get asked day in and day out so the first thing I do when I’m going to tune a car is find out what the vehicle is and see if I already have a file for it by looking up the ECM part number or for some vehicles like for mark for 180 s as long as it’s an immobilizer 3 car which I can tell by looking in the instrument cluster with a scan tool it’s mostly 2002 and up basically I know that they’re all the same file so i can pull the file up my computer and then i have to look for a driver so my software i use is ECM titanium and it goes through and it automatically searches and finds the correct driver now says it’s for an a3 because the file they built the driver off of was an a3 but it’s the same file so it doesn’t matter so you pull the file up and that brings up all the maps in the computer alright alright and so now that you’ve got the the maps all located in the computer you can see that there’s all sorts of different things that this map has pulled up as far as different charts and different different maps in the ECM and changing them changes what your ECM does so you see we’ve got requested engine load we’ve got rpm limiters spark advance we’ve got your fuel ratio here it’s requested lambda we’ve got things that deal with boost and then we have things for missions and then some other things that have to do with the low rating in the requested load so what the engine computer basically does is it has a couple limiters that stop it from over boosting so you’ve got a limiter here and you’ve got a limiter here as well and basically these are more or less what set your boost from the factory so if you go in and you max these out now I can change the boost and it allows it to do you know in the comp lines of what I want it to do or what the ECM will let it do it allows it to raid raise the boost and so basically what the engine computer does is it looks at the air-fuel ratio that you’re trying to hit and you can see on this stock map it’s tuned for about 14 721 almost all the way across the the ECM and the like the load range so above you know ninety-eight percent power it’s finally looking for something a little bit more rich than 14 721 but it’s not much more rich it’s only about 13 or 13 and a half to 1 i’d have to look at a chart to tell you exactly but so basically people want to know well how do I know what you’re doing is safe well your stock engine management is tuned for 14 7 to 11 of the most or more agreed-upon air-fuel ratios for turbo cars 11 and a half or 12 to 1 air fuel ratio is considered safe under maximum boost and load so this isn’t considered safe really but they’re able to get away with it by not having aggressive timing and also by not pushing the boost and the reason they do that is because this is what makes the catalytic converter work most efficiently so um then you’ve got mmm you’ve got some maps in here for turbo pressure and you can see it’s not actually boost its all in in percentage of load requested you’ve got see this turbo pressure map here’s a you know a random or not random number but a number that you know ranges from 0 to 2,600 or 2560 but just see it’s not really boost now there’s numbers up here that have to do with boost and RPM and I can tell it you know above this range I want you to hit two thousand and weird didn’t let me do it there we go but that doesn’t necessarily mean that this is going to be you know 14 PSI so you got the thousand millibar for atmospheric pressure and then the second thousand millibar or 14.7 PSI would be boost so now I’ve kind of told it to do that but if you’re not getting the fueling that you need or something else is wrong like you’ve got a boost leak or something

like that it’s not going to actually do it so here I’ve gone and I pulled up an actual modified map so we’ve gone in and we’ve raised the RPM limiter to 7,200 instead of 65 I think it is the maximum speed the vehicle has been maxed out five hundred and ten kilometers an hour which is the highest that I can actually even make it that’s a lot faster than your golf or jetta we’ll ever be able to go anyways um and we’ve gone into the air fuel ratio chart and now we’re hitting a much more safe our fuel ratio which is going to allow us to to hit a higher boost so you can see you know on this at sixty percent throttle 3000rpm we’ve started to target more like low 14 or high 13 air fuel ratio by the time we get down to the end this is around 11 and a half to one here it’s just 12 to one about so what the engine computer basically is going to do now is it’s going to say I’m at this RPM I’m at this throttle and I’m going to hit this air fuel ratio and I’m going to increase the boost as far as I can within the confines of what you’ve told me I can do as long as I can hit this air fuel ratio so people say well how much boost is your file going to be and you know the answer to that is well I might have gone in and I might have told it that I want to hit you know a hundred percent he of what I’m allowed to do but that doesn’t mean that it’s going to do it and I might have maxed out my limiters or increase my limiters so that they’ll do what I want them to do but that doesn’t mean that it’s going to actually do it so what I’m basically saying is people want to know you know how many horsepower or how many boost it’s going to hit and the big question of that is or and the big answer for that is that it really depends on what kind of condition your cars in so if your mass airflow sensor is bad and it’s not reading correctly in grams per second you’re not going to hit 16 or 18 pounds of boost if your breather system is bad meaning all the plastic pipes on the 18 turbos down to the intake and on the valve cover that breather valve next to the diverter valve on the on the turbo inlet if you’ve got cracked hoses if you’ve got leaks you’re not going to hit what you should hit and you might not hear a boost leak because you can actually have boost leaks inside those hoses under your intake manifold that you won’t hear you won’t see but that we can see when we read your mass airflow sensor the 2-liter turbo they have a diaphragm that can get torn in the in the diverter that’s bolted the turbo they also have the PCV valve on the front of the valve cover and that thing is really common to blow out especially on tuned vehicles and when that happens there’s nothing that you can do to try to tune to hit 20 psi or whatever it’s just not going to happen so I get a question I get questioned by people all the time well what can your tune do or what does it do and the answer that is that the tune can do anything that any the big companies tunes can do and is more likely to be more aggressive than their tune because I can see your car and I can read it and I can know that’s not detonating so I can push the timing if I want I can push the boost and I don’t have to worry about it so very often I’m able to beat the big companies tunes without even modifying spark advance just by tuning for a higher air fuel or for a for a better fuel ratio but not necessarily as rich as theirs and for more boost for example this tune is a tomb that I didn’t write my tunes typically only target 12 the one air fuel ratio because I don’t do remote tunes I Drive the car and I make sure that it’s driving right when I’m done tuning it so i don’t have to tune overly rich more lean is more power as long as you’re not you know getting to the point where you’re risking causing problems so you know to tuning for 1201 air fuel ratio and raising the boost is generally enough to do it so the reason how you know Dino or put out horsepower numbers is because basically the majority of the cars that that come to me don’t have brand new breather systems might not be running colder spark plugs a lot of them have reverted to a catch can instead of the stock breather system because they didn’t want to replace the stock breather system because it was too expensive where somebody on VW vortex told them that stock breather system is junk and then generally with the catch cans and the deleted breather systems the cars don’t run the way that they’re supposed to run they don’t get the boost their supposed to run and they don’t make the power that they really should be making the factory breather system is the best thing for the for the vehicle

it makes it transition in and out of boost the best it runs the best other things you can you can do to improve the performance of your car can also limit the boost your vehicle can get the example I like to use is if I’m blowing through a straw I’m going to create a high pressure in that straw but if I’m blowing through say a toilet paper tube I might not be blowing the same pressure but I’m definitely getting a higher air flow do the size of the tube because it’s much bigger than a straw so people get caught up on boost numbers where they’ve got upgraded exhaust they’ve got a you know three inch downpipe maybe even three inch all the way back no cat they’ve got maybe an upgraded intake manifold or an upgraded turbo and as they approach red line with their stock cable 3s turbo it starts to fall off till it’s only no 14 PSI and it starts out at 18 or something like that on some vehicles you’re just not going to be able to hit 20 psi you know and have a good safe tune like I said the ECM calculates all of this I’m not trying to override any of it if you have such a free-flowing intake and exhaust system that your turbo can’t keep up based on the air fuel ratio that we’re trying to hit and everything it’s not going to hit that and that doesn’t necessarily mean you’re making any less power it just means that you’re more vaio metrically efficient the turbo can’t keep up and really the only thing you can do at that point is upgrade your turbo to hit those higher numbers but again I want to stress the people the pressure is not what matters it’s the amount of airflow that you’re getting that matters and that’s really all that matters really all you should be worried about alright so here I pulled up a file from a 225 horse out ett that I had to build this guy had big injectors and so people say well what can you do and I can do that too just like any of the other companies that you go into the hex data you have to tell it okay this is the formula that I want you to use to know what size injectors you have and also there’s latency or delay in the injectors based upon the voltage and so there’s some stuff you have to change for that too but basically sometimes when I go up to a car and I download the file from it the system doesn’t find a driver automatically and this is an example of that I’m going to hit a board because I know it doesn’t have it in the system so what I have to do is I have to email this company alien tech who makes my system they’re out of Italy and overnight they come back and they email me back and they upload the driver and they might already actually have the driver in the system and for whatever reason it doesn’t recognize it or they might have to make it and upload it in this case they just wrote me and they said use this a 775 underscore 366 driver so we pull it up in the system and it brings up the maps now on this map instead of the air-fuel ratio actually being in lambda it’s just a number between 0 and 255 so um 128 across the board pretty much means that what we’re doing is we’re hitting 14 7 21 but really there’s no explanation on what the air-fuel ratio actually is so I’ll go ahead and pull up this file has anti lag on it and it has because it has no cat so that’s disabled I did that in the hex editor and then it says here that I did 440cc injectors so what I did on this car was I had to go in and I had to up the fueling until I got it to where I wanted and as you can see here i increased it to 200 above 75 percent throttle and that hit 12 to 1 air fuel ratio so this file in particular this car hit about 25 pounds of boost and 12 to 1 air fuel ratio which I’m really I feel really good about it it ran great was fast I actually tuned over one of the big companies that I used to install tunes for tunes and this tune made more power and it was it was plenty safe and the guy was really happy with it cuz now he has anti lag which that other company didn’t offer and and everything turned out really well again you can see in here boost is not an actual boost number it’s a number that goes between 0 and 65,000 and so over time you figure out what all these numbers are and so 21,000 in this ECM was enough to hit about 25 psi at full throttle but again if his breather systems out of shape or something he won’t hit that alright so hopefully have cleared up a lot of the confusion about performance tuning and to answer the lot of people’s questions how do I know that what you’re doing is

safe well your stock air-fuel ratios are targeting 14.7 one or 14 21 maybe maybe 13 and a half to one if you’re lucky what’s considered safe is about 11 and a half or 12 to 1 air fuel air fuel ratio so by targeting a more rich air-fuel ratio and raising the boost to a level that’s safe for your turbo charger which is 14 to 18 psi maybe on some of the KO for cars higher you’re not really risking anything because you’re not pushing excessive pressure that’s going to cause 300 degree air intake temps and you’re actually running more rich which is safer but the fact we really can’t do that because they need to make the catalytic converters work properly and stuff like that they have to worry about emissions stuff not saying that the cat can’t put up with it in fact a lot of people do have catalytic converters with these tunes and they don’t see early failure or anything like that unless they’re trying to use anti lag with the cat but that’s here nor there so I didn’t talk too much about naturally aspirated vehicles because there’s a much lower probability that you’re going to cause any problem on them you’re going to rich in it up to about 13 one instead of 12 1 air fuel ratio you’re going to bump the timing and then you’re going to read it make sure it’s not detonating I can do those you know you don’t see as much of a game but it’s possible and getting rid of some limiters and stuff people think it’s still really beneficial but hopefully I’ve lifted some of the veil off of it for you so you understand what’s happening and you understand that it’s safe i normally charge well my my real price is 200 dollars instead of the 600 that a lot of places charge and I have a money-back guarantee there’s only been one person that’s wanted that even though i frequently tune over other companies tunes and the reason he wanted it wasn’t even the tune it was just because he had problems with his vehicle that he couldn’t afford to fix at the time or didn’t wanna fix at the time with the breather system and some exhaust issues and so even though i’m tuning over six hundred dollar tunes most people opt safe with my two hundred dollar tunes because they put out more power because i’m able to drive your vehicle make sure it’s actually functioning properly and and also um because they’re a third of the price I very often show up and and and tune a car and then you know free of charge basically tell the customer you know you’re British system isn’t quite right or your mass airflow sensor looks like it’s reading a little bit low or I think maybe I hear a leak here or your fuel pump doesn’t feel that strong might want to look at upgrading that and so you know very often I actually help fix the vehicle and make it run even better than it ran when I showed up to do the job and that’s something that you don’t get with the big tuning companies or some of the other tuning companies that maybe specialize more in performance instead of how I’ve been doing repair for you know ten years I can do multi maps most people don’t opt for it the main thing that people ask me about multi maps for us because they think they’re going to get worse fuel mileage most people don’t see that and the reason is because the maps aren’t edited below about sixty or seventy percent throttle so when you’re driving conservatively the you’re driving in the part of the tomb that is still stock your fuel ratios haven’t changed the boost your calling for hasn’t changed the timing hasn’t changed so the only reason you will get worse mileage from one of these tunes is from driving more aggressively now very few people actually will report an increase because they drive so conservatively that that extra little bit of power makes it so they don’t have to keep their foot in the throttle quite as long and get to the speed they’re trying to get to but the majority of people will probably see about the same or decrease from just beat not it more and that’s just the way that it is after people figure that out they generally just stick with the single map because of the cost the only you know the only other real reason you want to go with multi maps is if you had a car that was like a big turbo car meaning like a GT 35 or something where it makes a crazy amount of horsepower and it’s pretty much undriveable in the rainy weather that we get here in the northwest and then maybe you’d want to have another map that was a lower boost level but you know by and far that’s not really what people are looking for Eva not actually on some of the v6 and v8 I’ve even had people ask me to lean it up or restrict performance a little bit in the bottom end because or sort of thing get better mileage basically and and I can also do that and I’ve even had parents actually asked me to limit the speed of the vehicle lower for younger drivers so that they can’t do 100 miles an hour and for

parents that want that done I can do that too I can you know knock the limiter down 80 miles an hour or something like that so your kids not out street racing the thing or whatever so if you’re looking to get a tune down in Seattle area I’ve even driven down to Portland and lined up a few Tunes before then message me on facebook under double auto works or you know you can message me here on youtube or find me at Danny Meyer Ronnie that’s Danny ma I owe our a an eye on facebook and send me a message and be glad to see if I can help you out