everyone it’s Dasia from Chris shaver after calm today we’re going to make these super easy wrist warmers just using worsted weight yarn a six millimeter usj hook and pretty much one kind of stitch you’re going to work these up really fast I’m also going to show you how to get them to be the exact same size a really easy trick to do that so grab your yarn and let’s get started okay so before I begin actually crocheting I wanted to make sure that before you begin if you’re only working with one ball of yarn that you make it a center pull ball and I’m going to explain why in a little bit but before you begin if you have one skein or whatever you have find both ends so that you can work with both ends off of the same ball if you don’t know if you don’t have like a center pull skein that you can work from both sides right now you can go ahead and wind it into a center pull ball and I have a video tutorial on that but it’s going to help you create more if you have any problems keeping gauge when you’re working on pairs of items so wrist warmers or gloves whatever it may be this trick is going to help you keep your gauge consistent so get a center pole ball if you do not already so that we can start the project okay so the first thing we’re going to do is put a slipknot on our hook so we’re going to turn and just grab that working yarn and pull it through and my instructions tell me to chain 34 so if you know how to foundation double crochet you can go ahead and do 32 of those because this project is perfect for the foundation double crochet and what that is is a technique where your foundation chain and your double crochet your first row double crochet is combined into one so I have tutorials on that you can go check it out if you want to try that otherwise you can go ahead and just start chaining 234 so we always yarn over from back to front turn your hook down and pull through that chain and we’re going to do that 34 times yarn over pull through now the reason that you might do a foundation double crochet instead of chaining and then doing a row of double crochet is that you find that your first row of double crochet is always really tight a foundation double crochet creates a really stretchy foundation for any project you’re working so it can be really beneficial if that very first row of your double crochet is usually really tight so I’m going to work up to 34 and then we’re going to start our row one instructions for the arm warmer all right I’ve got 34 chains and now we’re going to start the actual first row and it’s telling me that I’m going to double crochet and every chain that I come to pretty much so what we’re going to do is we’re going to yarn over and it says beginning in the fourth chain from my hook so we don’t count that loop that’s on our hook that’s our working loop we’re going to count the v’s remember each little V is one stitch or one chain so I’m going to count one two and three those are the three chains that I’m going to skip and those are actually going to count as my very first double crochet then I’m going to go into that fourth chain and I’m just going to catch this back loop and I’m going to do back loops all the way across my foundation chain because we’re making a ribbed double crochet so these back loops are what we’re going to be using throughout the whole pattern so I’m going to yarn over which is more of like a layover on this first part of our double crochet we just kind of lay it right over the top of your hook so you can catch it and pull up that loop now I have three loops on my hook I’m going to work off two at a time so I’m going to yarn over back to front as normal pull through that first two and I’m going to push my loops back to my shaft this gives me nice even loops and even stitches then I’m going to yarn over again and I’m going to pull through the last two so now I have one actual double crochet and a chain three that I’m counting is a double crochet because they end up getting kind of bulky looking like the double crochet we want to count our chain threes throughout the entire pattern again I’m going to yarn over from back to front now I’m looking for my next V which is right here I’m going to grab that back loop again push through lay over the yarn pull up the loop you’ll see that kind of pull everything down so what my stitch is riding on top of my work I don’t want to start doing my yarn overs

with my hook in front of my work that’s going to give me short squat stitches so make sure you pull your loops up to the top of your work before you start working your loops off so you’re Nover from back to front pull through to push to my shaft yarn over pull through the last two and push to my shaft so what I’m doing this normal speed you’ll see that I always push to my shaft that’s why I like these hooks because they have that kind of bumper stopper so I’m going to keep pushing till I hit that bumper and then do my next move so again I look for my next chain make sure you don’t go in the same chain that you already worked into you can see this one is attached to this chain so I go into my next chain lay over that yarn pull up yarn over pull through the first two shaft second to shaft so just remember always push to your shaft and that’s going to give you nice even stitches so I keep doing double crochets in every chain that I come to all the way across my foundation chain and at the end I’m going to have 32 double crochets technically it’s 31 and a chain 3 but because we count that chain 3 my stitch count is going to read 32 stitches on the pattern I came on my very last chain and I’m doing my double crochet then instead of starting round 2 I am going to stop and give you some trivia did you know that when you crochet depending on the day and how your day is going your gauge is going to change so what does that mean that means if you make this entire warmer tonight and then you make your next arm warmer tomorrow night but you had a fight with your significant other your arm warmers probably going to be smaller your new one’s going to be smaller than this one because you are going to be a little tense and tend to crochet a little tighter so I’m going to show you why you made a center pole ball I’m going to stop with this one and I’m going to start on my second arm warmer right now with the other end of that ball so I’m going to alternate every single row that I do between the two arm warmers when when I do that so if I have that fight tomorrow I will crochet both of these a little bit tighter than normal which will give me a more consistent outcome on the two arm warmers so if you’ve ever made a pair of anything and one is always a different size in the other and you’re having the hardest time trying to get them to match work them at the same time so I’m going to do my 34 chains on my second arm warmer right now and I’m going to do Row one and then we’re going to line these up and check out how the gauge matches up okay so I finished Row one of both of the arm warmers and as you can see they are nearly perfect always saying nearly because you never nothing’s really ever super perfect but they look completely even to me which is much better than I normally make my two paired crocheted items if I make them one at a time it is guaranteed that one will be smaller than the head and start on row two so either or arm warmer I’m just grabbing whatever one was in front of me and I’m going to start my row two instructions so what I want to do is chain three but I’m going to do something special just for this video and I’m going to do my tall chain which is a way to get rid of gaps on your double crochet projects so if I do a chain three let me show you the difference I do a chain three and then I work the first stitch which tells me to double crochet in the back loop only because I’m counting this chain three as a stitch I wouldn’t work into that very first loop I would go over to the second one and do my first double crochet and I’ll go a little slower up with that back loop when I show you the difference so now I have this big gap here in between my chain three and my first double crochet and every other row is going to have that gap at the beginning of my row so to eliminate this gap make it non-existent I’m going to do what’s called a tall chain so I’m going to pull a chain as tall as I make my double crochets and then I’m going to yarn over and pull through that’s going to lock that in place now I’m not counting this as a stitch this was just a starter to

get my stitch up to that chain or that double crochet height so now I’m going to double crochet but I’m going to do it in that very first stitch because I’m not counting this as a stitch so we’re working in the back loop only because we’re making a ribbed fabric so when you’re looking at the top of your hook or the top of your stitches you see your V’s the V’s are there to show you your loop so you have your front loop which is closer to you and your back loop which is further away from you what that’s why it’s called the back loop because it’s in the back so I’m going to insert my hook through there and then yarn over like normal or the lay over as I call it and pull up a loop yarn over pull through the first two yarn over pull through the second two now that big gap that I had is gone because I have a stitch there instead so that is a very handy tip for working your stitches it’s anything where you have a chain three for a double crochet you can substitute that tall chain so you don’t have that gap so that’s just for you viewers at home special special tip for you so again I’m going to yarn Oh I’m going to go into the next back loop and what I do is I kind of go straight through the center and push down and that catches that back loop nice and easy I don’t normally turn my work I can catch it very easily just by pushing through the middle and down so as I’m working these and I’m doing it in the back loop all the way across every single stitch this is a super duper easy pattern because we’re doing just the same stitch over and over again so it’s great for a beginner but you turn out a really cute project so just keep working on this back loop only all the way across and I’ll meet up with you right at the end okay I’m working the second-to-last double crochet now i’m at my chain three because i’m counting this as a stitch i need to work into it so i need to do a double crochet and i’m going to stick my hook right in that top chain of the chain three to make my double crochet so make sure you don’t forget to work a double crochet into this chain three otherwise your stitch count is going to go down if you’re doing the trick that i just showed you you’re going to be working into a double crochet at the end of this row so it’s a lot easier to see if you’re not using that trick and you’re using a chain three just always remember to work in your chain three otherwise your projects going to start turning into a triangle because you’re going to start decreasing every row so I’m going to stop with this arm warmer because I finished a whole row and I’m going to pick up my other one I’m going to do the same for Row two and you’ll see that row three through seven is just a repeat of this row so you can pretend that this is Row three on the other side on the other one and you’re just going to do the same exact thing you’re going to work in that back loop only and do your double crochets all the way across so all you have to remember is work into that last chain three if you have one on your extra rows not Row two because there’s definitely a chain three but if you’re doing the trick like I’m doing you’ll have a stitch to work into so keep going do rows two three four five six and seven and then we’ll meet up and I’m going to show you on how to read your gauge with a gauge reader so that you can understand how that works and we’ll move on with our instructions okay so I finished through row seven and you can see that I have two pretty identical sized pieces so I’m working both sides still at the same time okay so my pattern states for row eight this is where I’m going to be making my thumb holes so it’s telling me to chain three and then DC in my next five stitches but because I’m doing my tall chain it’s actually going to be six double crochets because I’m going to put a double crochet instead of a chain three in that first stitch so I’m going to have one two and what this part is is the part that’s going to sit up here on your palm or on the back of your hand so you don’t want it too tall because it will cover your fingers and look kind of funny so we’re just going to do six stitches and then we’re going to make our thumb hole and the way that we’re going to do that is very simple we’re going to make four chains so we’re going to our Nover right where we’re at and do some chains three

and four and then it tells us to skip the next four stitches because we’re going to make a hole for our help for our thumb to fit through so I’m going to skip look at your stitches sideways if you need to find them easier we have one two three and four and then I’m going to double crochet in that fifth stitch so I’m going to whoops I got a little extra here start that over yarn over insert in that fifth stitch and then make your double crochet and then you’re just going to double crochet the rest of your stitches so now we just made our thumb hole and then when we come back I’m going to to finish to the end of the row and then come back and show you how to work into the chain stitches so just finish the row and we’ll meet back up on the ninth row again back at my chain for when you’re working your chain four you have a few options that you can do you can either continue working into the back loop so you can just do a double crochet just like a regular foundation chain and work into that back loop only or you can work all the way around the chain so you can yarn over go through the whole big hole that you have and then do your double crochet and you would make four of those since I already started with working in the back loop I’m just going to continue with that so I’m just going to go into the remaining three through the back loop just to keep it consistent since that’s what I’ve been doing through the whole row and then once I come to the end of my row nine I’m going to do another my pattern size another three more rooms so ten eleven and twelve because I’m going to make the size small for these arm warmers because that’s the size that I wear if this is like totally customizable so you don’t even have to follow the pattern for how wide you need it you can just keep trying it on so when you’re making it stop and put it on and see how close you’re getting and remember there’s quite a bit of stretch so when you get it I could even sew it up probably right now except for up here is a little little stretched out but you can just keep checking it to see if it’s ready to be sewn up so however many rows you need to work till it’s wide enough for your arm will also work so you don’t have to necessarily make as many rows as I put for a certain size so you can customize this very easily so I’m going to keep alternating my arm warmers working up into row 12 you work up to however why do you need yours to be and then we will meet up to join the whole arm warmer together and I’ll show you how to do the joining technique to put it together so you can finish it okay I made my second arm warmers finger hole so I have them for both sides I wanted to make sure before I did the rest of the rows that I explained that these are reversible because doesn’t really matter which you make them the same way because you could put them on either hand so just in case that’s confusing at all you make to exactly the same and then you just put them on whichever hand you need them for also let’s look at gage real quick so you can see how to measure it if you need to this pattern is pretty easy to adjust so it’s not super necessary to meet gage because having it a little bit shorter than it is or a little bit narrower is not going to make too much of a difference because it does stretch quite a bit but if you want to learn how to read gage a knit Susan Bates knit check is my favorite because it has this little cutout and it’s metal so it won’t warp um what I normally do is I find my V’s on the top so if it’s difficult to see the front of your stitches you can see that the color on this kind of muddles the stitches up if you’re not used to reading the front of stitches to tell how many are there use your V’s so turn your work move this out of the way so it’s clearer background use your visa and place them inside your neck check I always do my gage on my patterns at 2 inches because of this knit check it’s so easy to see the two inches so I’m

counting the V’s that I have within my little window here so I start right at the end of one and I count one two three four I’m moving as I’m counting let me turn this around it’s a little bit easier because they’re not folded over okay let’s try that again okay so we have one two three four five six seven stitches within two inches so you can see the 7vs from one side to the other notice I’m not pulling my work apart I’m not trying to scrunch it I’m just letting it relax and then I place my knit check right in there and you can see that I have seven stitches from the very end of one stitch to the very end of the next stitch so that is my gauge across so you see on the pattern it says seven DC’s for two inches then you have your row gauge so then you’re going to count upwards now because this is ribbed double crochet you can see that this row double crochet is much taller than this row because it’s ribbed if I flip this over now that row is the tall row and the one that I just did is the short row so I have to count these as they’re made which means I’m not going to count like a normal size double crochet for every single row I’m going to count what I see so I’m going to start off with the top of that last row right at that two inch mark and count down so I can see I have one row here another short row another big row and another short row so all together I have four rows of double crochet even though they’re not for normal rows I’m counting it as I see it so it’s not necessarily for tall rows of double crochet it’s for ribbed double crochet rows so when you’re checking your gauge depending on what kind of stitch pattern you have it can vary quite a bit so always go off of what your pattern is telling you so we have two four rows for two inches and seven double crochets across so we keep going with my rows until I get to row 12 and then I’m going to show you how to join these finish both sides or both arm warmers you can see I have them sitting on top of each other and you can see that they line up just perfectly well I don’t want to say perfectly but they line up really well to the point where they look the same size so now we’re going to do our joining you’ll notice that I didn’t fasten off on either of my arm warmers because I’m actually going to use the loop that’s already on my hook to start joining because we’re going to do a single crochet join which is my favorite kind of join because it’s all crochet so let me show you how to do that okay so to start our join our single crochet join what we want to do is decide which side is going to be our right side and which side is going to be our wrong side because this is ribbed double crochet in rows it’s not a big deal which side you put on front or back they look the same on both sides it also doesn’t matter about the thumb hole because these are interchangeable you just kind of turn it to put it on whichever hand you want so it’s not a big deal what side you pick what you can do is if maybe you had not in your yarn or something that is showing through one side of your fabric you can make that your wrong side so I’m pretending that this is the side that I like and maybe there’s something wrong on this side what I’m going to do is I’m going to fold the good side so they’re touching the bad sides on the outside right now reason why is because once we finish our join we’re going to turn it inside out and then this side is going to be on the inside so to begin our single crochet join we already have our loop on the hook we are set to go we don’t need to chain one because unlike other single crochets we’re going to tighten these down because there are join and not regular single crochet so you notice that we’re on a stitch row so it’s nice and easy to see our stitch we’re just going to go under both loops of our V and then we’re going to go across and you’ll see that we have the nice two loops from our foundation chain so they almost look like a V is so it’s very easy to see these two loops so working in that back loop at the beginning really helped out so this is my chain 3 from the very beginning so I’m going under both of those loops I’m going to lay over my yarn pull through you do one at a time if they’re getting stuck and I have my two loops yarn over and pull through and then tighten it

down so just pull on your tail to tighten that whole stitch down that’s going to create a tighter seam for you now you just want to make sure as you’re working that you’re keeping your stitches lined up so you have your normal stitch your normal V then you have those two loops that kind of form of E so you’re going to go and you can see there’s like a little hole underneath them so I’m going right under catching those both of those loops and you can just in case you’re wondering you can catch just one loop on both sides if you want you can just do like outer loops or inner loops it’ll just change the seam a little bit you with this yarn you’re probably won’t even notice it but you can check out my joining tutorials and I actually show you what each of those look like in the video so again I pull down after each one so as you work just remember to pull down a little bit on your single crochet when you’re done so that it makes a nice tight seam and that’s what we’re going to do all the way across just make sure you’re going into the next stitch so you can turn it sideways if you need to find where the last one was made then make yours in the next we’re going to pull all the way across and then I’ll show you what to do right at the end of your join him dome at last join here my very last stitch then if you need to test it out remember two players loop like real long so it doesn’t pull out and find my thumb hole here there it is and slip it on and try to see if you have enough room it’s looking like the size I want it so if it was little bit too tight like if my stitches were too stretched out I would just pull out my joint and just add another rope if it’s too big like I have lots of extra fabric I could pull it out and then actually frog out a row so this is really easy it’s a nice join that you can easily remove and fix however you want so what I’m going to do now is I’m going to fasten off and I’m going to start weaving in my ends let me cut my end okay and then you know that I love to double knot things and since this is kind of a join I’m going to go ahead and double knot this it’s one of my quirky things you don’t have to double knot you can just start weaving in but I feel much more secure when everything is knotted so let’s start weaving in my ends and since I’m already on my wrong side I can go ahead and just start weaving through everything on this side and I have this nice fat join single crochet does create a ridged join but it’s so simple to do and it’s not really bothersome when you’re wearing the arm warmers so that’s why I chose that join you can also substitute that join for a whip stitch or a slip stitch or a mattress stitch whatever you want whatever joins your favorite but I’m not weave in these ends and then we’re going to turn our gloves right side out and be all done so just keep weaving in your ends and I’ll see you as I finished everything I’m going to leave in handle we’ll even woven in I wanted to leave one off just so you could see where the seam is invisible it is once you finish so right here is where my seam is those are the actual loops from the single crochet so that’s why we tighten them down because otherwise those loops would be kind of bulky and big and our seam would pull apart if it wasn’t tight enough so I’m loving this yarn that I used you can check out the blog to learn more about the yarn and download the pattern but if you have any questions or comments leave them below and thank you for watching